1. Which ski is right for me? 

1.1 Things to consider 

When choosing what ski is right for you, there’s two a few key points to keep in mind: Think about what your ability is, your riding style, your preferred terrain and how you want to progress. Once this is clear to you, think about your skis: You should consider length as well as width. It is also worth looking into turning radii and rocker types so you know what sort of ski is perfect for you.

1.2 About You 

1.2.1 Ability & where you want to be - Levels of skiing 

It’s important to be honest about your level of skiing. If you underestimate or overestimate your skiing ability then you might end up with the wrong skis. Where are you now and where do you want to be at the end of the season? If you want to work on your level, it helps to choose a ski that will help you progress and bring your skiing up a gear, rather than choosing a ski that is too much to handle and won’t help you progress.

If you currently stick to piste skiing (groomers) but you’re keen to start skiing both off-piste and on piste (groomers), we recommend looking at skis that are versatile enough for both terrains. If you want to become more freeride orientated, you should look at getting slightly wider skis to what you are currently skiing on. If you want to progress in the park, consider twin tip skis with a waist no wider than ~102mm.

1.2.1.1 Intermediate 

You’re new to skiing or still working on linking smoother turns. Your skis should have a soft flex, narrow widths, soft wood cores and capped/semi-capped constructions - these elements will give you a ski that is easy to turn and more forgiving when making mistakes. The shorter the ski the easier it will be to handle and so for intermediate rippers, we recommend a ski that is between chin and eye height.

1.2.1.2 Advanced 

You like to carve on groomers, ski in powder and are comfortable charging fast. Generally, we recommend you choose skis that are the same width or wider than beginner/intermediate skis and have a stronger wood core and sandwich side wall construction. The extra width will give you a more versatile ski to float through deeper days as well as the extra durability you’ll need when you’re dialing in those cliff drops and first tricks in the park.

No matter what terrain, you will need skis that are made for a more aggressive riding style. Your skis will often contain layers of titanal, carbon, flax and other materials to improve their performance at speed and extreme conditions. Choose a ski width that suits the terrain you ski, narrow for park rats and hard snow rippers, medium width for all mountain aficionados and budding freeriders, and finally a wide ski for you backcountry, pillow-poppin’, powder slayers.

As for your construction, choose a flex that suits your style of skiing: softer flexes (6/10) for buttering like Adam Delorme through to stiffer flexes (10/10) to stomp cliff drops all day like Sam Anthamatten.

1.2.2 Think of your skiing style as a 'personality' 

Everyone skis differently, nobody is the same. Most skiers prefer one or the other of the following attributes:

Aggressive VS relaxed

Surfy turns VS carving/locked in

1.2.3 The conditions you ski in 

1.2.3.1 Where do you ski on the mountain?

• All over the mountain
• Sidecountry
• Backcountry
• Park
• Moguls
• Piste only (look elsewhere)

1.2.3.2 What are the average snow conditions like? 

• Mainly powder/soft: Japan, US and Canadian West coast
• Variable: Alps, Southern Alps, Andes, Pyrenees
• Harder/wind scoured: US and Canadian East coast, Scotland, Korea

1.2.3.3 Will you be touring? 

• No
• A little
• Yes, hut to hut

1.3 Your Skis' Dimensions 

1.3.1 Ski width 

This is measured at the waist (middle), which is usually the narrowest point of the ski. Generally narrower skis are better on groomers/piste and at making tighter turns as they are easier to shift from edge to edge. Wider skis, however, provide better flotation in powder and soft snow.

All Faction skis’ dimensions are reflected in a 3 number measurement.

1.3.2 Turning radius 

Tip, waist and tail width of a ski determine the shape of a ski and its turn radius. The narrower a ski’s waist is in relation to its tip and tail, the shorter the turn radius and the deeper the sidecut. A ski with a shorter turn radius will make quicker turns, while a ski with a long turn radius will turn more slowly - this means it will be more stable at high speeds but more difficult to handle for intermediate skiers.

The longer the ski the larger the radius it will have.  This is because, normally, a longer ski equals a taller skier, which means they are generally heavier and/or stronger.  Therefore they have more power to turn the ski and so the radius can be longer, increasing the skis stability without reducing performance.

Generally, if you are skiing all over the mountain you should look for a radius between 16 and 24.

If you are solely skiing off piste the radius of your ski matters much less, as you very rarely have the whole ski engaged on a hard surface. If you’re skiing mainly in powder or soft snow, don’t be scared of a high radius.

Note: Many people look for a short turn radius but this has a number of negative side effects.  The skis become jittery and unstable when you are not turning and so at medium to higher speeds they can become unstable.  In softer conditions they also become hooky, this means that you can catch your tip/tail more easily as the powder snow creates drag on the ski.  For this reason we, you won’t find us trying to brag about how short our skis’ turning radii are - it’s BS!

To counteract this some of our skis have a dual or multi radius sidecut, you can learn more about these here:  5.3.2 Dual-radius sidecut and 5.3.3 multi-radius sidecut.

1.3.3 Camberline and Rocker Types 

The camberline of a ski is how it looks from the side when placed on a flat surface, skis with traditional camber bend upwards in the middle.  Skis with rocker bend up earlier in the ski whether it’s the front or the back of the ski.

Traditional skis are fully cambered, if you put the skis base to base they will only make contact at the tip and the tail (see diagram). This helps the skier to apply even and concentrated pressure on the edge in the tip and tail. However in softer conditions this causes the tip to dive, meaning you’ll loose speed and might go head over heels in deep snow!

Rocker is also called reverse camber and is basically the exact opposite to camber. Rocker skis, based on water skis and boat designs, provide better float in powder and make it easier to initiate turns with a smaller chance of ‘catching an edge’. Rocker also helps make skis more manoeuvrable; because they are easier to pivot. In general, the fatter the ski, the more rocker it has.

All of our skis have a blend of camber underfoot and rocker in the tip and tail to ensure you get the best of both worlds.

1.3.3.2 Rocker/Camber/Rocker 

Faction Skis with this camberline:

Prodigy 1.0

Prodigy 2.0

Prodigy 3.0

Prodigy 4.0

Dictator 1.0

Dictator 2.0

Dictator 3.0

Dictator 4.0

CT 1.0

CT 2.0

CT 3.0

CT 4.0

Prime 1.0

Prime 2.0

Prime 3.0

Prime 4.0

1.3.3.3 Rocker/Flat/Rocker

1.4 Common mistakes 

1. Buying a ski because everyone else has it (or a certain athlete has it). Take your time to figure out what model is actually right for you.
2. Purely based on test results (a certain group of testers at a certain level in a certain resort may not reflect what ski is right for you).
3. Over- or underestimating your ability
4. You had questions but never had them answered! If you have any queries, we’d be happy to help, just shoot us a message on our live chat.

2. Our Skis

Our skis are separated into 4 series.

Each series is made up of 4+ ski models, each sharing similar characteristics. The 1.0 is the narrowest in the series, the 4.0 (5.0) is the widest. Generally, the softer the snow you are going to be skiing in, the wider your skis should be which corresponds to a larger number. For example, 1.0 or 2.0 skis are generally for harder/all-mountain conditions, whereas the wider 3.0, 4.0 and 5.0 skis are more orientated for powder days and those lucky parts of the world that gets fresh snow consistently.

2.1 PRODIGY SERIES 

2.2 DICTATOR SERIES 

2.3 CANDIDE SERIES

Candide 3.0*, 4.0*, 5.0 - Sidecountry to Backcountry, lightweight (tourable) and playful (if you want to huck big cliffs look at the Prodigy or Dictator series)

2.4 PRIME SERIES

2.5 The Difference between Men's and Women's skis 

Most ski brands’ women’s models are shorter, softer versions of the men’s equivalent with the recommended mounting point moved slightly further forward.
After much testing with female athletes, friends and ambassadors, we have concluded that men and women of the same size, height and ability should use the same ski. However, lighter skiers no matter their gender should size down. Women of the same height are often lighter, therefore our women’s series offer the same construction but are available in some additional, shorter lengths.
At Faction, we use progressive mounting points for all of our skis, therefore the mounting point is already further forward than traditional men’s skis.

2.6 The Difference between Adults' and Junior Skis  

Our junior skis are designed to be softer for easier turning and have no camber for easier pivoting, spinning and surfing. Instead of the usual foam core, our kids skis have a wood sandwich construction to provide a more stable ski. They are designed to allow kids to progress quickly and explore a freestyle inspired ski.

2.7 Where Faction Skis are made 

All our skis are handmade within the EU.  We currently have 2 factories for our skis, 1 in Austria and the other in the Czech Republic.

 

3. Ski Tech Guide

3.1 Cores 

3.1.1 Poplar Core  

Poplar is a light-coloured, medium-weight, durable softwood that flexes and pops nicely as well as having a whole load of vibration absorption capabilities. Used as the only wood in this core, it allows the ski to pop, butter and stomp like a park ski and also have enough torsional stability to grip impressively on the downhill.

3.1.2 Poplar/Beech Core 

Poplar is a light-coloured, medium-weight, durable softwood that flexes and pops nicely as well as having a whole load of vibration absorption capabilities. The darker-coloured, heavier hardwood, Beech, adds stiffness and rebound. The results are a reasonably light ski that grips great and feels snappy between turns - always maintaining a soft enough flex to pop, slash and butter all over the mountain.

3.1.3 Poplar/Ash Core 

Poplar is a light-coloured, medium-weight, durable softwood that flexes and pops nicely, as well as having awesome vibration absorption capabilities. Ash is a heavier hardwood, that compliments Poplar by stiffening up the ride and adding some extra durability. This duo provide a chatter-free hold on hard snow, a solid base for stomping landings and more than enough pop and flex to get creative with.

3.1.4 Hybrid Core: Balsa, Flax, Poplar 

Balsa is a sandy-coloured softwood with exceptional strength for its light weight. Reinforce the super lightweight Balsa with earthy-coloured, robust Flax fibre plus Poplar strips and you have a durable wood core that holds an edge like other skis twice its weight. During the drying process, cells of water in the Balsa wood are driven off, leaving behind a strong core with no excess weight.

3.1.5 Fusion Light Core: Paulownia, Poplar 

Paulownia is a pale-brown hardwood which is stable and light weight. This is combined with the light-coloured, medium-weight softwood Poplar, to add some flex and extra pop to proceedings. The mix of these two woods results in a lightweight core with excellent responsiveness and rebound, complimenting and offsetting the two full layers of Titanal metal that we sandwich on either side of it.

3.2 Shapes 

3.2.1 Symmetrical true twin 

The same width at the tip and tail gives these skis a generous, symmetrical sidecut which translates to a shorter turn radius and snappy feeling between turns. An identical twin tip height in both tip and tail ensures effortless switch skiing for all your freestyle needs.

3.2.2 Directional true twin

This shape is inspired by symmetrical freestyle ski design, but tweaked for a freeride approach. A slightly skinnier tail width than tip width means this ski is faster and performs better on the downhill than a completely symmetrical ski. The same true, identical twin tip height as its symmetrical park brother, for switch skiing and landings.

3.2.3 Directional twin

A considerably skinnier tail width than in the tip provides ultimate downhill performance for attacking the mountain, but still allowing you to release the tail when you want to. A twin tip in the tail encourages playfulness and freestyle attitude, meaning you can ride switch without a problem.

3.2.4 Progressive flat tail

Innovative design, which blends the turn stability and speed of a traditional flat tail shape with a generous amount of perfectly calculated tail rocker, engineered to reward pivots and slashes. Stable to ski at high speeds, playful and easy to initiate turns at lower speeds – this shape exceeds expectations.

3.2.5 Freeride flat tail

Traditional flat tail design is built for speed, ultimate edge grip and control throughout charging turns. Brought into the modern day with a slight tail rocker, this shape is easier than ever to slash your turn into a slarve and won’t hook up in fresh conditions.

3.3 Rocker/Sidecut

3.3.1 Surf Zones

Surf Zone unites Rocker and Taper design to make sure these two key features work in harmony. Rocker provides float and facilitates pivoting, while a Tapered Tip moves the widest part of the ski closer to the centre and removes unwanted hooking. The right amount of both, in the right place, to promise a floaty, seamless, surfy ride in all conditions.  

3.3.2 Dual Radius Sidecut

Designed for versatility, Dual Radius sidecut offers two different radii along a single edge. In front of the binding, a shorter radius sidecut provides quick response and control for tighter turns while a longer radius in the tail section keeps you stable at high speeds and feels solid when you’re charging. The result is a ski that surfs seamlessly between different turn angles and never drags.  

3.3.3 Multi Dimension Sidecut 

Meticulously designed, the multi-dimension sidecut blends multiple arcs to create a sidecut geometry that changes along the length of the ski. This manoeuvrable shape consists of a shorter radius underfoot, keeping the ski nimble on those steep and narrow entries, and longer radii blended out to the tip and tail that ensure a stable and surfy feel when you’re flying out the bottom.

3.3.4 Extended Tip Rocker/Tail Rocker 

The term and concept of Rocker is inspired by waterskiing (and skiing legend Shane McConkey), where floatation is key. We employ Extended Rocker, a reverse camber shape in the tip and tails, which along with waist width, is the most important element in providing float in fresh snow. Extended rocker also makes pivoting and turn initiation easier and means you have less chance of catching an edge.

3.4 Materials 

3.4.1 Dual Titanal 

Titanal is one of the most sturdy metals out there. Its isotropic qualities, equally strong in all directions, mean that the ski loves being on an edge, blasts through bumps and feels stable even in changeable snow, making it the perfect chassis for a holy grail, hard-charging freeride ski. 

3.4.2 Flax Fibres

Leading the pack of next-generation, low environmental-impact ski materials, these natural, earthy-coloured composite layers are stronger and lighter than the standard sheets of fibreglass that they replace. An innovative, biaxial layup of Flax Fibres ensure excellent dampening characteristics adding all the stiffness and torsional stability you could want from your eco-friendly landing gear, and more.  

3.4.3 Flax Stringers

These natural, earthy-coloured composite strips are stronger and lighter than the standard fibreglass that they replace. They ensure much needed dampening characteristics in our softer, freestyle orientated skis, adding all the stiffness and torsional stability you could want without the environmental impact.  

3.4.4 TeXtreme Carbon 

Used in state of the art aeronautical engineering and deployed as a full layer of laminate in our skis, the spread-tow structure weaves at varying angles and axes, spreading stability and stiffness across the whole ski. The weave is made up of thin strips that are resistant to even the smallest cracks and fissures, so your skis defy expectations for longer - thinner, lighter and stronger than regular carbon.

3.5 Other 

3.5.1 XL 2.5mm Edges

7 fractions of a millimetre might not sound like much, but when it comes to edges, it adds up. The 2.5mm edges on our CT 1.0 stack an extra 35% of height on top of our already super-durable standard 1.8mm edges. This extra steel gives the rider, who wants to grind metal and pretzel rails all season, a pair of skis that are going to take more park abuse, for longer.

3.5.2 XL 2.2mm Edges

Extra edge thickness gives the rider, who wants to hit park rails and urban features, a pair of skis that are going to absorb shock and impact much better on rails and ledges than skis with standard-sized edges. The result is a ski with a much higher life expectancy than most of the park ski population out there.

3.5.3 Carbon Stomp Pad

Carbon reinforcement underfoot adds additional strength to a freestyle ski, where it matters most. As well as protecting the wood core against heavy duty impact on rails, this carbon reinforcement underfoot adds stability and vibration absorption under your boots, so that stomped landings feel better, both for you and your skis.  

3.5.4 Titanal Reinforcement

When you’re on a day-long touring trip in the backcountry, you need to be able to rely on your gear. Titanal reinforcement plates are laid up on top of our Hybrid cores ensuring that your binding screws hold like nothing else. This one-piece design fits alpine and touring bindings, adding trustworthy durability to these lightweight cores, so there’s nothing holding you back on your next backcountry adventure.

3.5.5 Micro Cap

Micro-cap construction is a hybrid of two construction techniques: a premium, sandwich sidewall construction fused with a lightweight, durable cap construction. With micro-cap, the sandwich construction provides awesome edge hold and torsional stability while the ski’s topsheet wraps around and meets the sidewall, protecting the fragile join that can be prone to chipping.

3.5.6 Micro Cap JR

A traditional sidewall sandwich construction, providing great grip and pop, meets micro-cap, adding extra durability for the youngsters who rip well beyond their ages. The ski’s topsheet extends and wraps partially around the ski, meeting the sidewall and protecting the join that can be fragile to chipping either in the air or in the parking lot.

 

4. What poles should I get? 

The choice of your pole model comes down to personal preference. Go for a pole that looks best to you and fits your daily skiing style. The ideal pole length is dependent on the conditions and type of skiing you do. For on and off piste skiing, you will need a pole around elbow height or slightly less. For skiing in the park we recommend a shorter pole at around hip height or slightly higher, this won’t get in the way when your grinding rails or spinning off booters. You especially want to avoid your poles being in your way or flying around when you are spinning and the best way to do so is to choose a shorter length pole.

If you’re into touring, or ski freeride lines one day and the park the next, it’s worth looking into adjustable poles so you can change their length dependent on the conditions you are skiing in and the type of skiing you are getting after.

All our poles come with piste/park baskets and additional powder baskets.

Skier Height (cm)	Skier Height (Inches)	Pole Length (cm)
145 cm or less	57" or less	100 cm or less
145 - 153 cm	57" - 60"	105 cm
154 - 160 cm	61" - 63"	110 cm
161 - 168 cm	64" - 66"	115 cm
169 - 175 cm	67" - 69"	120 cm
176 - 183 cm	70" - 72"	125 cm
184 - 190 cm	73" - 75"	130 cm
191 cm +	76" +	You're too tall!

 

While the table below offers a good starting point you may want to go a little shorter if you're riding in the park, or a little longer if you ski on steeper terrain.

Here’s a cool video on how to attach your straps.

Here’s a cool video on how to attach your pole baskets.

5. What bindings should I get? 

We have two different sets of bindings, the SPX 12’s and the Pivot 14's. The most basic difference between the two is that they have different Din ranges; this affects the level of pressure needed to make the ski come off.
The higher the Din the more pressure is needed for the ski to come off. The Pivot 14’s have a higher Din range which is better suited for more advanced, aggressive and heavier skiers.  The Pivot 14 is also a stronger binding employing more metal as it is designed to handle more abuse.
The Pivot 14 has a unique turntable heel piece, unlike any other binding available on the market, which means that the lateral elasticity of the Pivot 14’s heel piece is greater than that of the SPX 12 so it releases in a more consistent way in certain crashes.
You will also need a brake size that fits the waist width of the ski; bindings tend to fit skis that are up to around 1-2mm wider than the width of the binding’s brake.  For the Prodigy 2.0, because it has a 96mm waist either the SPX 12 100mm or the Pivot 14 95mm would be the best choices.

SKI	SPX 12	Pivot 14
Prodigy 1.0	90mm	95mm
Prodigy 2.0	100mm	95mm
Prodigy 3.0	120mm	115mm
Prodigy 4.0	120mm	115mm
Dictator 1.0	90mm	95mm
Dictator 2.0	100mm	95mm
Dictator 3.0	120mm	115mm
Dictator 4.0	120mm	115mm
CT 1.0	90mm	95mm
CT 2.0	100mm	115mm
CT 3.0	120mm	115mm
CT 4.0	120mm	115mm
Prime 1.0	90mm	95mm
Prime 2.0	100mm	95mm
Prime 3.0	120mm	115mm
Prime 4.0	120mm	115mm

6. What size skins do I need?

In partnership with Pomoca, we have created a proprietary silicon based glueless Tipon skin that is easy to use and light-weight. The clips that come with the skins are compatible with all of our skis, flat-tails and twin-tips.
The Dictator and Prime series come with notches in the tail that are perfectly suited for the clips on the skins. However, these can be used relatively well with rounded tails as well (for example on the CT 3.0).

6.1 Skins Size Guide

Our skins have 2 important sizes, the length, so they are the correct length for your skis, and the width (so they cover enough of your ski).

6.1.1 Length

Our skins come in 2 lengths: medium and large

Medium: 165-180cm skis

Large: 181-195cm skis

6.1.2 Width 

6.2 Skin Technology 

The POMOCA skin with TIPON technology is the thinnest and lightest skin on the market. It is very easy to use: with a washable adhesive, it does not need reglueing and it is not sensitive to heat and UV.
The TIPON membrane technology combines two types of induction (a membrane and an adhesive) directly on the fabric. It is waterproof and lightweight and extremely temperature-resistant so it will not freeze.
Our skins can be trimmed and come with a cutting tool.

7. How do I look after my skis?

Looking after your skis is essential to increase their life-span and maintain performance.
Your local shop will be able to help you maintain your skis for you, however learning how to do it yourself is less pricey and is a cool way to learn more about your gear.
There are two important factors in maintaining your skis: Keeping the edges sharp and the bases waxed/smooth.
At Faction we’re committed to reducing waste – we will help advise on the best course of action to maintain and fix your skis and give you all the advice you need, no matter how old your skis are.  With the correct care and attention a pair of skis can easily last 5+ years.

7.1 Your Edges 

The edges (the metal that runs along the base of your ski) help you to hold an edge on snow and ice so you can grip to make turns.
Your edges can easily go rusty and small dents can impact your ability to hold an edge and carve a turn on hard snow and ice.

Our recommended edge angles are:

Side edge angle: 88 degrees

Base bevel (bottom side edge): 1 degree

Once you have sharpened your edges, you need to de-tune the tip and tail so they do not catch (you do this with a gummy stone). A sharp tip and tail can make the ski seem much harder to ski than if they are detuned.
Edges are meant to be sharp and therefore can cause damage to your skis (and other items (clothes/gloves/bags etc.) if you are not careful!

Rails and Edges

If you are regularly in the park and are hitting rails often you must make sure to round off your edges first to ensure your skis last longer, and slide more smoothly on the rails and boxes.  If you do not round your edges, you will catch them on the boxes/rails which will reduce the lifespan of your skis and also increase your chances of falling.

7.2 Your Base 

The base needs to be kept smooth and waxed to allow you to slide well.

Waxing is important to maintain the performance of your bases, if you do not wax your skis regularly they will dry out and the base can eventually start cracking and deteriorate.

As well as regularly waxing them, your skis should also be regularly checked for scratches, gouges and core-shots. These should be evened out and repaired – we recommend doing this at your local store.

After between 21 and 45 days of skiing you should get your bases ground, this ensures the bases are fully flat and clean.  We recommend going to your local store to get your bases ground as it requires special machinery. If a store is grinding your bases they will also give them a wax.

7.3 Waxing 

All our skis are already waxed by the factory so there is no need to get your skis waxed after purchase.

Wax generally lasts 7-10 days on the mountain so we recommend that you invest in some wax and an iron and learn how to wax your skis.  Alternatively you can ask your local store to wax your skis.

Note that the wax you put on your skis eventually comes out of the base and ends up on the mountain and in local watercourses (eventually ending up at sea).  To reduce the impact on the environment always choose a non-fluorinated biodegradable wax.

See 8.5 for storage maintenance.

7.4 Edge Tuning

It’s supremely important that your skis are tuned correctly. Most importantly this includes the angle of your edges. (It also includes grinding the base and polishing the edges).

Talk to the ski tuner about your skill level, abilities and what terrain you’re planning to ski in, this will help them tune your skis perfectly for you.

If you are interested in tuning your own skis there are lots of excellent websites with more information.

7.5 Storing your skis 

Don’t neglect your skis when it stops snowing! Store your skis somewhere away from heat and damp to avoid rusting. If you can coat your skis in a layer of wax before storing this is even better as it will prevent rust and ensure your base does not dry out.

7.6 Tips to keep your skis looking good for years

1. Be careful when cleaning the snow off your skis with the other ski. If you hit the metal edge against the plastic top sheet it will eventually damage it (for example many people do this while sitting on chairlifts).

2. Be careful when putting your skis down or carrying them - if you bang them into a hard object (concrete/metal stairs/ceiling etc.) you can cause damage to them.

3. Use a velcro/rubber strap to keep your skis together and even better store them in a padded bag at all times.

8. Bindings 

8.1 Where should I mount my bindings? 

All our skis come with a recommended mounting point that is marked on the ski.

The recommended line is where the boot centre line is (as below), which is where we recommend you mount the ski - this is the point the ski has been designed to be skied on, depending on its use case.  For example our park skis have a more forward mounting point.

9. Shipping Dates

	Countries/States	Business Days
EUROPE	Austria	2-3
	Belgium	1-2
	Bosnia and Herzegovina	4-5
	Bulgaria	6-7
	Czech Republic	2-3
	Denmark	2-3
	Estonia	5-6
	Finland	5-6
	France	2-3
	Germany	1-2
	Greece	4-5
	Hungary	3-4
	Ireland	3-4
	Italy	2-3
	Latvia	5-6
	Lithuania	5-6
	Netherlands	1-2
	Norway	5-6
	Poland	2-3
	Portugal	3-4
	Romania	3-4
	Spain	2-3
	Switzerland	2-3
	United Kingdom	2-4
USA	Alabama	5-6
	Alaska	3-4
	Arizona	2-3
	Arkansas	4-5
	California	1-2
	Colorado	3-4
	Connecticut	5-6
	Delaware	5-6
	Florida	5-6
	Georgia	5-6
	Hawaii	3-4
	Illinois	4-5
	Indiana	5-6
	Idaho	2-3
	Iowa	5-6
	Kansas	4-5
	Kentucky	5-6
	Louisiana	5-6
	Maine	5-6
	Maryland	5-6
	Massachusetts	5-6
	Michigan	5-6
	Minnesota	5-6
	Mississippi	5-6
	Missouri	4-5
	Montana	3-4
	Nebraska	4-5
	Nevada	1-2
	New Hampshire	5-6
	New Jersey	5-6
	New Mexico	3-4
	New York	5-6
	North Carolina	5-6
	North Dakota	4-5
	Ohio	5-6
	Oklahoma	4-5
	Oregon	2-3
	Pennsylvania	5-6
	Rhode Island	5-6
	South Carolina	5-6
	South Dakota	4-5
	Tennessee	5-6
	Texas	4-5
	Utah	2-3
	Vermont	2-3
	Virginia	5-6
	Washington	2-3
	West Virginia	5-6
	Wisconsin	4-5
	Wyoming	2-3
CANADA	Ontario	4-5
	Quebec	5-6
	British Columbia	1-3
	Alberta	2-3
	Nova Scotia	5-6
	Saskatchewan	2-3
	Manitoba	3-4
	Newfoundland & Labrador	7-9
	New Brunswick	5-6
	Prince Edward Island	5-6
	Northwest Territories	4-5
	Yukon	4-5
	Nunavut	8-11

You will receive a tracking number once your order is despatched. If you haven’t received a tracking number after 4-5 working days, please contact us atinfo@factionskis.com. At peak times, we have a large amount of orders going out. Please be patient and leave enough time to order your skis if you have a ski trip coming up.  If in doubt ask us before placing your order!

10. Where can I test skis?

We have demos during peak season, and also demo centres that allow you to demo our skis throughout the season.

You can find all our Demo events on our Facebook page here. 

Your closest test centre can be found here.

You can find your closest shop in our storefinder.

We recommend calling the shop up and checking whether the ski you’re interested in is available before visiting, if it is not available they will often be able to get it in store within 5 working days or less.

11. Contact Us

11.1 Warranties 

We offer a two-year warranty on all products from the date of purchase against manufacturing defects. Damage caused by skiing on anything but snow is not covered under warranty. You can find our warranty policy and information on how to submit a claim here.
If you bought your product through a Faction dealer, please contact them first

11.2 Returns 

If you are not satisfied with your product, you may return it within 30 days of receiving it for a full refund or exchange, providing it is in a saleable condition.  This means the skis must still be wrapped and not have been mounted/drilled.

Return your items here. 

11.3 Want to be sponsored by Faction?

We carefully consider who we choose to sponsor. You can make your application through our website, but please be understanding if you do not receive a reply quickly – we are genuinely stoked that you are keen to join the Faction Collective but get a lot of applications every day and we make sure we read each and everyone.

Apply here. 

11.4 Pro & Industry Deals

If you’re an industry professional and live by your equipment, we think you should pay less. Our pro-deals allow us to offer exclusive pricing to fellow industry professionals on selected products.

Apply here. 

11.5 How to become a Faction Dealer 

We’re always stoked to work with new shops, please use the contact form below letting us know where you are in the world, what products you are interested in and if you have stocked Faction before.

11.6 Help us improve

Any other questions, queries? We’d love to hear from you – for any comments, errors or ideas you have which will help us make Factionskis.com better, please let us know using the form at the bottom of the page.

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